Midstate Ohio Kart Club

Buying Your First Kart

by Carl Mason

LOOKING FOR YOUR KART
You've done your homework, found the local tracks, know what rules you'll be running under, decided what class you want to run, and are ready to buy your first racing kart. While they are by no means complete, here are some things to consider.

Whether you buy new or used (which I recommend for your first kart), your biggest concern should be support. Are parts and advice readily available locally for both the chassis and motor? It does you no good to save a few bucks buying a chassis that is cheap, but no longer imported for example. Where will you get parts when (not if) it breaks?

Foreign or domestic is a matter between you, your god, and your pocketbook. There is no doubt the foreign chassis' were quite a bit ahead a few years ago. However, the domestic manufacturers have made giant leaps forward. I'd wager Emmick, Trackmagic, Invader, Margay, etc. have a chassis that can run head-to-head with most of the foreign stuff . . . for less money.

I don't have any karting related business interests, so I am not going to benefit either way. However, I am a firm believer in supporting your local kart dealer. Sure, I buy some things mail order, but I also spend a fair amount at the local dealers. While I may pay more locally, I know if I go there with a question, I'll get some answers. And if you develop a good rapport with them, you may get a few 'specials' thrown your way. I also know the local dealer will stand behind his products, many mail-order places (not all) will refer you back to the manufacturer. Another run-around waiting to happen.

BUYING A NEW KART
If you're buying a new kart, there aren't too many things you need to look at, but there are a few to consider. Insist that the dealer mount the seat with you in the kart...ON THE SCALES! Since your body weight makes up a major portion of the total weight, proper placement is critical. Driver comfort is a consideration, but it is not THE consideration. Proper handling is.

Each chassis will 'like' a different weight distribution. The dealer should know this and should help you achieve a good starting point. They aren't likely to hit the magic combination right off, but they should get you close enough until you have lots of seat time and can start making adjustments.

Ask the dealer to adjust the toe-in to his recommendations with you IN the kart. The chassis is your suspension. As such, it flexes when your weight is added. This flex will change the toe-in (a function of weight and king-pin inclination). Make a note of the resulting measurement with you OUT of the kart. Write this number down for future reference.

Speaking of writing things down, good records cannot be over emphasized. Sure, the first few times out, it's easy to remember what adjustment was made. However, after a few dozen races or more, it's not as easy. The Amazing Kreskin might be able to keep track of all that was done and what the conditions were on a given day, but I sure can't! I'd wager you can't either. Write it down.

Get a set-up sheet from the dealer when you buy the kart. They should have some recommendations for tire pressures, gear ratios, track widths, pipe flex length, etc. for the track/chassis/motor/class combination you're going to run.

It's easy to overlook all the miscellaneous 'stuff' you need at the track when you're buying a kart, but they need to be factored into the overall cost of your racing effort. As with any hobby, there are always goodies and gadgets to make you flashier, faster, smoother, smarter, etc… Here are some of the basics you'll need.

Kart Gear:

Fuel container w/funnel

Ratio Rite (2-cycle motors only)

Starter (clutch kart only)

Stand (actually not essential, but pretty close)

Tire pump of some type (I used a bicycle pump for two years)

Tire pressure gauge

Basic hand tools (metric and standard)Allen wrenches (metric and standard)

Feeler gauge (dial caliper would be very helpful too)

Clutch tools (as applicable)

Chain breaker (DO NOT use master links!)

Gear sets appropriate for the local track

Something to carry all the stuff you'll accumulate, like spare everything! Besides a truck or trailer, plastic boxes like Rubbermaid's Action Packer work very well at keeping all the bits and pieces in close proximity.

Plus all the consumables: Gas/oil, alcohol, spark plugs, clutch oil, chain lube, etc..

Some type of instrumentation for the kart (EGT, CHT, RPM)

Safety Gear:

Helmet (check with sanctioning body, most require Snell 90 or newer)

Driving suit or jacket (1000 denier nylon recommended)

Gloves (leather)

Neck collar

Rib protector (not required by most sanctioning organizations, but highly recommended)

Belts/restraints (for Champ kart)

BUYING A USED KART
When buying a used kart, there are a lot of things to look for. The most important is frame integrity. This means all welds are intact and the chassis is reasonably square. Inspect all welds for cracks. If you see a crack in the paint on a weld, ask the seller to strip the paint off for a closer look. If they refuse, look elsewhere for your first kart.

Remove the seat and measure from each king pin (spindle bolt) to the rear bearing hanger on the opposite side. The measurements should be within 1/4" of each other. If they are not, the chassis is sprung and should be avoided.

If buying a sprint or enduro chassis examine the spindle washers. The same number of washers (within one or two) should be on each side of each spindle. In other words, if the left spindle has four washers above and four washers below the spindle bearings, the right side should be the same (within one or two). These washers are used to fine tune the left/right weight ratio on the front. If there is a significant difference between sides, it indicates the frame is bent and the seller has compensated by moving the washers.

While a bent frame can be helped by bending it back, it is best not to start with such a chassis. This check does not apply to a chassis used on ovals as it is desirable to have more left side weight on an oval.

As with a new kart, get any set-up notes the seller has for this kart. These notes reflect many days of racing/testing and are worth almost as much as the chassis itself. Without the notes (or copies), don't be in a hurry to purchase the kart unless your research shows it's a better than average deal.

It seems like every motor ever sold is 'fresh' or only has '2 races on it.' There are only a few things you can check, but you should insist on them or push for a discount.

Have the seller start the motor. Don't take no for an answer; if he doesn't have any fuel, arrange to come back a time when he does. This doesn't guarantee the motor is 'fresh', but at least you'll know the ignition and carburetion are good enough for it to run.

Using the seller's compression gauge, check the compression after a warm-up. There are no universal absolute compression numbers. However, if the seller kept good records, he should be able to tell you what is good for his motor with his compression gauge. If he can't, be wary.

On a 2-cycle (Yamaha in particular), look through the exhaust port at the piston skirt. If it looks scuffed (dull with vertical lines in the piston skirt), the motor has some time on it and is not fresh. While looking in the exhaust port, note whether or not the port has been cleaned up (smoothed) which is a sign of at least minimal blueprinting.

On a 4-cycle (Briggs in particular) most of the above applies. Also, find out what cam, rod, and dipper are installed. Briggs class' rules vary significantly; make sure the motor is legal for the class you want to run.

WHAT IS INCLUDED IN THE DEAL?

Have the seller specify exactly what is included with the kart. Some people consider a 'roller' (kart with no motor) as a kart with wheels and no tires. Others don't include either wheels or tires. Get the specifics. If you go to a seller and there are several karts and spares lying around, have them segregate everything included in the deal from what isn't.

The more spares, tools, and equipment you can get, the better. The items listed in Buying a New Kart are only the beginning; you'll need more. If the seller will throw them in to sweeten the deal, so much the better. Gears, chains, plugs, etc. are not cheap. Their worth should be considered when weighing buying options.

I'm sure I've missed a few things, but you can see there is a lot to consider when buying a kart, be it new or used. Good luck and good hunting.

This document was authored by Carl Mason, a karting enthusiast located in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area and is reprinted here with his permission. Other clubs that wish to use this piece for promoting karting in their area are encouraged to contact Mr. Mason at kartattack@sbcglobal.net.

Buying Your First Kart by Carl Mason LOOKING FOR YOUR KART You've done your homework, found the local tracks, know what rules you'll be running under, decided what class you want to run, and are ready to buy your first racing kart. While they are by no means complete, here are some things to consider. Whether you buy new or used (which I recommend for your first kart), your biggest concern should be support. Are parts and advice readily available locally for both the chassis and motor? It does you no good to save a few bucks buying a chassis that is cheap, but no longer imported for example. Where will you get parts when (not if) it breaks? Foreign or domestic is a matter between you, your god, and your pocketbook. There is no doubt the foreign chassis' were quite a bit ahead a few years ago. However, the domestic manufacturers have made giant leaps forward. I'd wager Emmick, Trackmagic, Invader, Margay, etc. have a chassis that can run head-to-head with most of the foreign stuff . . . for less money. I don't have any karting related business interests, so I am not going to benefit either way. However, I am a firm believer in supporting your local kart dealer. Sure, I buy some things mail order, but I also spend a fair amount at the local dealers. While I may pay more locally, I know if I go there with a question, I'll get some answers. And if you develop a good rapport with them, you may get a few 'specials' thrown your way. I also know the local dealer will stand behind his products, many mail-order places (not all) will refer you back to the manufacturer. Another run-around waiting to happen. BUYING A NEW KART If you're buying a new kart, there aren't too many things you need to look at, but there are a few to consider. Insist that the dealer mount the seat with you in the kart...ON THE SCALES! Since your body weight makes up a major portion of the total weight, proper placement is critical. Driver comfort is a consideration, but it is not THE consideration. Proper handling is. Each chassis will 'like' a different weight distribution. The dealer should know this and should help you achieve a good starting point. They aren't likely to hit the magic combination right off, but they should get you close enough until you have lots of seat time and can start making adjustments. Ask the dealer to adjust the toe-in to his recommendations with you IN the kart. The chassis is your suspension. As such, it flexes when your weight is added. This flex will change the toe-in (a function of weight and king-pin inclination). Make a note of the resulting measurement with you OUT of the kart. Write this number down for future reference. Speaking of writing things down, good records cannot be over emphasized. Sure, the first few times out, it's easy to remember what adjustment was made. However, after a few dozen races or more, it's not as easy. The Amazing Kreskin might be able to keep track of all that was done and what the conditions were on a given day, but I sure can't! I'd wager you can't either. Write it down. Get a set-up sheet from the dealer when you buy the kart. They should have some recommendations for tire pressures, gear ratios, track widths, pipe flex length, etc. for the track/chassis/motor/class combination you're going to run. It's easy to overlook all the miscellaneous 'stuff' you need at the track when you're buying a kart, but they need to be factored into the overall cost of your racing effort. As with any hobby, there are always goodies and gadgets to make you flashier, faster, smoother, smarter, etc… Here are some of the basics you'll need. Kart Gear: Fuel container w/funnel Ratio Rite (2-cycle motors only) Starter (clutch kart only) Stand (actually not essential, but pretty close) Tire pump of some type (I used a bicycle pump for two years) Tire pressure gauge Basic hand tools (metric and standard)Allen wrenches (metric and standard) Feeler gauge (dial caliper would be very helpful too) Clutch tools (as applicable) Chain breaker (DO NOT use master links!) Gear sets appropriate for the local track Something to carry all the stuff you'll accumulate, like spare everything! Besides a truck or trailer, plastic boxes like Rubbermaid's Action Packer work very well at keeping all the bits and pieces in close proximity. Plus all the consumables: Gas/oil, alcohol, spark plugs, clutch oil, chain lube, etc.. Some type of instrumentation for the kart (EGT, CHT, RPM) Safety Gear: Helmet (check with sanctioning body, most require Snell 90 or newer) Driving suit or jacket (1000 denier nylon recommended) Gloves (leather) Neck collar Rib protector (not required by most sanctioning organizations, but highly recommended) Belts/restraints (for Champ kart) BUYING A USED KART When buying a used kart, there are a lot of things to look for. The most important is frame integrity. This means all welds are intact and the chassis is reasonably square. Inspect all welds for cracks. If you see a crack in the paint on a weld, ask the seller to strip the paint off for a closer look. If they refuse, look elsewhere for your first kart. Remove the seat and measure from each king pin (spindle bolt) to the rear bearing hanger on the opposite side. The measurements should be within 1/4" of each other. If they are not, the chassis is sprung and should be avoided. If buying a sprint or enduro chassis examine the spindle washers. The same number of washers (within one or two) should be on each side of each spindle. In other words, if the left spindle has four washers above and four washers below the spindle bearings, the right side should be the same (within one or two). These washers are used to fine tune the left/right weight ratio on the front. If there is a significant difference between sides, it indicates the frame is bent and the seller has compensated by moving the washers. While a bent frame can be helped by bending it back, it is best not to start with such a chassis. This check does not apply to a chassis used on ovals as it is desirable to have more left side weight on an oval. As with a new kart, get any set-up notes the seller has for this kart. These notes reflect many days of racing/testing and are worth almost as much as the chassis itself. Without the notes (or copies), don't be in a hurry to purchase the kart unless your research shows it's a better than average deal. It seems like every motor ever sold is 'fresh' or only has '2 races on it.' There are only a few things you can check, but you should insist on them or push for a discount. Have the seller start the motor. Don't take no for an answer; if he doesn't have any fuel, arrange to come back a time when he does. This doesn't guarantee the motor is 'fresh', but at least you'll know the ignition and carburetion are good enough for it to run. Using the seller's compression gauge, check the compression after a warm-up. There are no universal absolute compression numbers. However, if the seller kept good records, he should be able to tell you what is good for his motor with his compression gauge. If he can't, be wary. On a 2-cycle (Yamaha in particular), look through the exhaust port at the piston skirt. If it looks scuffed (dull with vertical lines in the piston skirt), the motor has some time on it and is not fresh. While looking in the exhaust port, note whether or not the port has been cleaned up (smoothed) which is a sign of at least minimal blueprinting. On a 4-cycle (Briggs in particular) most of the above applies. Also, find out what cam, rod, and dipper are installed. Briggs class' rules vary significantly; make sure the motor is legal for the class you want to run. WHAT IS INCLUDED IN THE DEAL? Have the seller specify exactly what is included with the kart. Some people consider a 'roller' (kart with no motor) as a kart with wheels and no tires. Others don't include either wheels or tires. Get the specifics. If you go to a seller and there are several karts and spares lying around, have them segregate everything included in the deal from what isn't. The more spares, tools, and equipment you can get, the better. The items listed in Buying a New Kart are only the beginning; you'll need more. If the seller will throw them in to sweeten the deal, so much the better. Gears, chains, plugs, etc. are not cheap. Their worth should be considered when weighing buying options. I'm sure I've missed a few things, but you can see there is a lot to consider when buying a kart, be it new or used. Good luck and good hunting. This document was authored by Carl Mason, a karting enthusiast located in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area and is reprinted here with his permission. Other clubs that wish to use this piece for promoting karting in their area are encouraged to contact Mr. Mason at kartattack@sbcglobal.net.